Single Parent Tours

NOVA SCOTIA - A BACKROAD ADVENTURE

For years I had wanted to vacation in Nova Scotia and do three things: · Ride the tidal bore Stand on the beach at the Bay of Fundy and watch the 40-60 foot tide roll in - the highest tide in the world! · Hike and drive along the captivating Cape Breton Trail. We just got back from a one week driving vacation and we did all three and then some! We visited interesting museums, ate a delicious array of seafood, and enjoyed the company of the friendly Scotians, who often invite you to join them at their community suppers or other activities, and so we did!

Nova Scotia is a lot bigger than I had realized. Driving between destinations takes a few hours, so you have to plan your itinerary accordingly. We wanted to focus on the great outdoors and the attractions unique to Nova Scotia, so we started our trip with a series of 2 night stops, along the northwestern coast of Scotia and finished with two 1 night stops along the southern coast as we finished our circuit. We mostly stayed in the charming and friendly B & B's of Nova Scotia - a bit pricey, considering the now not-so-favorable exchange rate for Americans, but a good value nonetheless. In some locations B & B's are all that are offered and the knowledge and amenities offered by our hosts were invaluable.

There are three ways to get to Nova Scotia. You can fly into Halifax, drive up and over and enter from the New Brunswick Peninsula or ferry over from Maine. We chose the ferry. We started our driving trip from our residence in NJ in the wee hours of a Saturday morning and reached Portland, Maine in plenty of time for a lobster lunch and early boarding for our 2:00pm Cat/Ferry to Yarmouth, Nova Scotia. The ferry ride takes 6 hours. Chairs are comfy and there is plenty of snack food and entertainment - movies, slot machines, and gift shop. Bring your own games and books as well as Dramamine and ginger tablets. Seas were rocky on the way out and we both had queasy stomachs on this voyage. Another option is to drive to Bar Harbor and take a shorter boat trip to Nova Scotia.

Parking your car on the ferry is an exciting and interesting experience. The dock workers know their stuff and position the cars quickly and efficiently. Not so for the customs clearance. With the new security measures, going through customs can be a long wait. Make sure everyone hits the bathroom before you leave the ship and have plenty of water and juice in the car.

From Yarmouth, we drove 50 miles to Digby where we spent our first two nights at a waterfront B&B called the Bayside Inn. Everything about the place was perfect - the hosts, the décor and the breakfast. We had a beautiful room overlooking the water. B&B's in Nova Scotia run about $100.00 a night CAD (Canadian dollars), some a little more, some a little less. It depends on the room you select and whether you want private or shared bath.

Digby is the scallop capital of the world. We tried them grilled (plain) as well as grilled with bacon. Quite delicious either way. The two major attractions of the area are Annapolis Royal and whale watching, which you can do via a lobster boat or a zodiac. Whale watching is best done on a day with calm seas so you can more easily spot the whales spouting. If your itinerary does not include Digby, there are other areas in Nova Scotia that offer whale watching. For more information on the Bayside Inn call 888-754-0555 or local 902-245-2247 or check out their Web site http://www.baysideinn.ca

Our next stop was Maitland, several hours drive to the East. An interesting stop on the way to Maitland was That Dutchman's Farm, located on RR # 1, in the town of Upper Economy. This is a great family stop. The farm is renowned for its award winning cheeses, especially their Gouda. You can sample any kind of cheese they make and there are farm animals and a nature trail to enjoy. The Web site is http//www.denhoek.ca or you can email at wmvandenhoek@hotmail.com or call 902-647-2751.

At Maitland we stayed at an 1830's farmhouse built by a former Sea Captain, aptly named the Captain Douglas House B&B. The owners are a friendly chatty couple called Carolyn and Calvin. The house has a lovely front porch and is surrounded by lots of flower gardens. The Shubenacadie River is directly behind the B&B and there is a bench where you can sit and watch the tide roll up the river. But bring your insect spray! The bugs are troublesome anywhere near the water in Nova Scotia. Peter and I celebrated our American Independence Day here, shooting off some Roman candles and drinking maple wine that we purchased earlier at the Gaspereau Vineyards enroute to Maitland. It was a novel July 4th celebration. To contact the Capt. Douglas call 902-261-2289 or email capt.doubls@ns.sympatico.ca. Their Web site is listed on their brochure as www3.ns.sympatico.ca/capt.douglas but it seems to be an outdated listing. Do a Google search and you will get some information.

Down the road from the Capt Douglas B&B is the headquarters for the Shubenacadie River Runners, one of the companies that operate rafting trips on the tidal bore. This was one of my top three "Must-dos." The tidal bore is a natural phenomenon which is seen in very few parts of the world. The Bay of Fundy is known for the highest tides in the world! In the V-shaped Bay of Fundy, with all its inlets, the water literally "piles up" as the tide rolls in, creating a series of oscillating waves, sometimes several feet high. The zodiac boats go back and forth across the waves, until the inlets fill up and the water becomes calm. It is a very bouncy ride and you must hold onto the ropes for dear life - literally.

The adventure company provides boots and waterproof gear but you get soaking wet, nonetheless. It is a good idea to wear a bathing suit with old clothes over it and bring towels in your car. A disposable waterproof camera is also a handy thing to have. Every family group was busy taking pictures of one another in their waterproof gear and taking pictures in the boats as well.

The departure times of the tour vary each day with the tide so you have to check the tide tables which are listed on the Web site. Children are welcome but the brochure does not note a minimum age requirement. I recommend the ride for young and old, but it could be too rough for very little children. My creaky knees were taking a terrible beating in the front "seat" until Ben, our competent likable guide, suggested I move further back in the boat. Prepare to scream and get very, very wet! To reach Shubenacadie River Runners, call 800- 856 5061 or 902-261-2770 or email: rafting @canada.com. Their Web site is http://www.tidalborerafting.com

If your itinerary does not include a tidal bore ride, you can still enjoy a first hand look at the tide rolling in at any one of the hundreds of beaches along the Bay of Fundy coast. Many towns post the tidal tables for the tourists and locals alike and people head to the beaches with their blankets and beach chairs and watch the tide cover the sandbars and landmarks in a matter of minutes. Bring your camera, bug spray and do not underestimate Mother Nature. The tide rolls in fast! This is NOT your California or Jersey shore.

Our next big journey was a drive to the northeast corner of Nova Scotia - scenic Cape Breton. This area is one of the most beautiful in Nova Scotia. The terrain changes as soon as you cross the bridge to Cape Breton. The drive from Maitland took over three hours and we stopped at the quaint town of Baddeck along the way. The town contains an excellent museum, well worth a visit, called the Alexander Graham Bell Museum. Bell was quite an inventor and the exhibits are interesting and informative for both adults and children. Many of them are hands-on.

Our final destination was the Four Mile Inn, located right off the country road in Cape North. This B&B was as unique as the previous two. Full of history and eye appeal, this former inn/general store contains a front porch, a spacious back porch where breakfast is served, a game room (board games only), and a map room (my favorite area next to the back porch!). There is a private walk out to a lovely beach and kayaks are available for use by the guests. Our host John was full of first-hand information about hikes and places to visit and where to eat. To reach the inn call 888-503-5551 or 902-383-2282. Email address is: jcuthbert@ns.sympatico.ca. The Web site is: http://fourmilebeachinn.com/index.html

That night we enjoyed one of our favorite (and cheapest!) meals in Nova Scotia. About a 20 minute drive from the Four Mile Inn is a shack called the Chowder House. Perched on top of a bluff with a lighthouse nearby, the Chowder House serves all kinds of seafood and chowders. The clam chowder and seafood chowder was crammed full of fish and the price was also deliciously sweet at $3.50 a serving. Whole lobsters went for $11.00. The lobster nets were laid out on the grass to dry, poignantly reminding you that the seafood was as fresh as can be. After we consumed our dinner, including an ample serving of bumbleberry pie, we headed outside to take some photos. Just then the fog rolled in and we had a perfect shot of the lighthouse just before it disappeared into the mist.

Another place for dinner is Morrison's Restaurant, down the road from the Four Mile Inn. It is more expensive than the Chowder House but offers atmosphere and good food. Next to it is an interesting little museum, church, and cemetery. The cemetery is worth a visit (and free!) but we thought the museum was a bit overpriced with their admission considering for what they had to offer.

The next morning, after a hearty outdoor breakfast, we set off on a bright sunny day for some hiking and scenic driving. Driving along parts of Cape Breton reminded me of Big Sur in California. The cliffs drop straight down into the sea and the road appears like a painted ribbon along the side of the cliff. At times I felt like I was suffering from scenic stress. We were headed for Meat Cove, the very northern tip of Cape Breton and a remote area indeed. Meat Cove got its name from the sailors who docked there to stock up on meat and wild game. You could say it was North America's first "drive through."

When we arrived at Meat Cove, much to our surprise and delight, some enterprising Scotians had placed a few picnic tables along grassy areas on the most scenic cliffs. For a fee of $2.00 we enjoyed the use of one of these immaculately clean tables, in one of the world's most pristine and beautiful areas. We munched on our excellent Dutch Gouda cheese, fresh bread and fruit, while cool ocean breezes blew by and we decided that this was a little bit of heaven.

After lunch we headed up a nearby trail called the Grasslands. (Trails are not well marked in Nova Scotia, so you have to get specific directions before hiking). The trail quickly became overgrown with brushes and wildflowers and I noticed I was working up quite a sweat. Despite a lot of huffing and puffing, I decided to keep going and see where it led. Peter went ahead and eagerly urged me on. As we neared the top, the trail suddenly opened up into a beautiful meadow full of wildflowers. As we reached the top we looked down into the ocean and then over to our now minuscule picnic table, and saw that we had hiked up at least 1200 feet. What an incredible view. To top it off, we were joined by a beautiful horse, part Palomino, who completely ignored us while he munched away at the sweet grass. This day was full of photo ops!

As we drove away from this area, we made a stop at an "Internet Café", right next to the road. True to form, it offered tea, and use of the Internet for a $3.00 donation. It was a quick and easy way to send messages off to family and check email, especially since my American cell phone rarely worked in these remote areas.

Later that day we did a short superb hike at the town of White Point. It was one of those hikes that doesn't look like much when you start, but the panorama keeps unfolding before you, as you continue walking. As we sat on some friendly rocks, we watched the lobster boats troll back and forth collecting their crustacean treasures.

The next day was an all day drive, as we headed south out of Cape Breton and then west along the southern coast of Nova Scotia. Shortly after leaving Cape Breton National Park, we passed through a delightful French town called Chéticamp. It was too early for lunch so we just passed through the town, but it appeared to be a delightful seaside town, full of quaint restaurants and shops. Were we not so pressed for time this particular day, we would have lingered there for several hours.

Many of Scotia's inlets and roads are connected by little car ferries holding about 6-12 cars. The charge is usually about $3.00 or $4.00 USD, so it is a good idea to keep with you some US dollar bills or Canadian $2 coins, when you are on the road. To me, this was part of the fun of driving through Nova Scotia. The ferries usually leave every half hour or whenever the ferry fills up.

Early that evening we stopped at a well marked property called the Marquis of Dufferin Seaside Inn, in Port Dufferin, about 2 hours outside of Halifax. Set in spacious grounds overlooking Beaver Harbor, the inn offers rooms at reasonable prices as well as a pleasant dining room and cozy bar overlooking the sea. Dave and Pat, the vibrant owners of the inn, are hands-on management. Dave, a music aficionado, walks around to make sure everyone is having a good time, while Pat attends to the business side of things. The Seaside Inn is well located for many attractions in the area. You can call toll free for reservations: 877-654-2696 or 902-654-2696 or email: sea@marquisofdufferinmotel.com The Web site is: http://www.marquisofdufferinmotel.com

The next morning, enroute to Halifax, at the recommendation of the locals, we stopped at Taylor Cove for a beautiful beach walk and short hike out to some sheltered coves. This is a great place for families, and quite popular with the locals. Uncrowded and remote, it offers numerous hikes of varying lengths and an opportunity to dip your toes into the cool Atlantic waters.

We spent the afternoon in Halifax, shopping and enjoying some of the tourist attractions. A pleasant surprise was the low parking rates, not usually found in a big city. For only $3.00 you can park all day near the tourist waterfront. With time running short, we were unable to make our planned stop in Lunenberg. Peter had visited this quaint seaside town years ago and liked it a lot.

We continued on to Yarmouth and arrived early evening on a Saturday night. Being a holiday week, the chain motels were gouging the "captive" tourists who needed to overnight in Yarmouth before boarding their CAT Ferry early the next morning. Rates were running as high as $150.00 a night for a simple room. We found a small motel, a block off the main drag, called the Capri Motel that offered economy rooms for about $80.00 a night, more to our liking. The helpful gal at the front desk even computed my VAT charges for me and issued the credit to my credit card.

VAT (Value Added Tax) charges are the special charges tacked onto your hotel, gas and food bills. If you are not residing in Canada, you are eligible for a refund on many of those charges, as you depart Canada, so save all your receipts! My refund amounted to $65.00, a sizeable amount. The next morning we lined up early for the ferry, so as to assure good seats as well as a place for our car. We were told the vessel is sometimes oversold, leaving people at the pier. At the end of the cruise, once again, we were efficiently loaded off the ship, only to wait a long time to pass through customs. We dallied in Portland, Maine for a tasty lunch, a cold drink and a quick walk through the trendy shops near the wharf before the long ride home. It had been a delightful vacation and we were sorry to see it end.

Special Note from GlobalBrenda: Currently U.S. citizens can still enter Canada with only a valid government issued photo ID, but that will be changing in the near future. By 2008, all entries into Canada will require a valid passport. There is a phase-in period. Check out this government Web site for the latest updates: http://travel.state.gov/travel/cbpmc/cbpmc_2223.html